The Black Knight playfield, lit up for the first time with the Chameleon IO Controller and ChameLEDs |
For this attempt, I upgraded my Reflow Toaster Oven with two additional 320w heating elements that I scavenged from a spare oven, bumping output from 1500 watts to 2140 watts, and this greatly improved the oven's ability to follow the solder paste reflow profile. Of course this meant it was now too powerful for a normal household 120v 15A circuit, and I've only got a single 20A outlet in the entire house. Luckily it's in the perfect spot in the garage right next to the garage door, which I can open for fresh air during reflowing.
I also installed my 3D printed linear clamps on the stencil printer, which greatly improved solder paste alignment, preventing movement during swiping.
I switched to some fresh solder paste, ChipQuik's Smooth Flow, and wow did it flow smoothly! The deposited paste looked much thicker compared to my previous attempt which had sparse amounts of paste in a few spots. I was actually worried it might be too thick, even though I only made a single swipe.
Semi-pro stenciling tip: do NOT make multiple swipes, as with each swipe you force extra solder paste through the stencil and it builds up and leaks under the stencil, causing shorts during reflow. I made this mistake often in the beginning. Automated stenciling machines make a single quick swipe only, and you should replicate this method if doing it manually. You have to trust the process, it works.
One additional tweak I made was simply working faster. The last board I assembled took over 4 hours from stenciling paste to reflowing the board, and the solder paste I'm using only has a 4-hour working window. This time I went from stenciling paste to reflowing in under 1 hour!
Those 4 changes addressed the biggest issues I noted from my previous attempt, and they definitely helped a ton.
Unfortunately, a new issue cropped up. Read on to learn more and see the First Light Video!